BStegmaier

From BStegmaier

Contents 1 Gear 1.1 Basic 1.2 additional Bouldering 1.3 additional Wall 1.4 additional Outdoor 1.5 additional Sport 1.6 additional Trad 2 Technique 2.1 Tying in 2.2 Belaying 2.3 Take up rope 2.4 Leading 2.4.1 Going up 2.4.2 Setting up anchor 2.5 Pursuik 2.6 Self belay 3 Links

Gear

Basic

  Climbing shoes

  Chalk bag

  <balloon title="rebuy">Chalk</balloon>

additional Bouldering

? Crash Pad

additional Wall

  Harness

  Belay device

  HMS locking carabiner

additional Outdoor

? <balloon title="rly needed?? maybe cycling helmet?">Helmet</balloon>

additional Sport

• Basic + Wall + Outdoor

  <balloon title="load:sportRope">Rope</balloon> single 10.5mm x 60m ?

? <balloon title="use normal bag instead">Rope bag</balloon>

  <balloon title="load:sportQuickdraws">Quickdraws</balloon> 12 pieces
different sizes: short 10cm for sport ok but also some 15 and 18cm which are more usefull for trad
wall straight gate carabiner, robe bent gate - colors for differentiating (->eloxiert)
use wire gate instead of bent gate in dirty or icy conditions
wall biner lose, the other one tighter. rubber to prevent it from slipping out of place (can be done with bicycle inner tube)

  <balloon title="load:sportSlings">Slings</balloon> Nylon or Spectra Slings 1.5cm x 60, 80, 120cm

  <balloon title="2-3 pieces. reichen hier nicht die schon vorhandenen HMS?">Screwgate Carabiners</balloon>

additional Trad

• Basic + Wall + Outdoor + Sport

? <balloon title="sport sling set again">Slings</balloon>

? <balloon title="2 for belaying and setting up belays">HMS Carabiners</balloon>

? <balloon title="3-4 more to set up belays">Screwgate Carabiners</balloon>

? <balloon title="set, size 1-10">Nuts</balloon>

? Hexes

? <balloon title="1.5 + 2.5 or 1, 2, 3">Cams</balloon>

  Nutkey

  Prusik

Technique

Tying in

• Figure of eight
  • Rope end in right hand. Right arm is outstretched to the front
  • Outstretched left arm grabs rope at the point where figure of eight will be
  • With left hand make a small loop pointing towards you
  • Turn it clockwise
  • With right hand pass rope end below loop and feed it through loop
  • Pull slack through
• Attaching to harness
  • by feeding through appropriate top and bottom loop
  • Pull tight till figure of eight touches harness
  • Double figure of eight
  • Beginning at the side closest to harness trace end of rope back through figure of eight
  • Control
  • Tighten
• Keeper knot
  • Starting close to figure of eight wrap rope end around the other rope going in your direction
  • When not much left feed rope end through all loops
  • Tighten while holding knot
  • There should be at least two loop and one hand width of rope end left

Belaying

• Setup
  • Insert loop of rope into one hole of belaying device. Dead rope should point to the right if right-hander and vice-versa.
  • Make rope follow wire cable
  • From top clip carabiner through both
  • Rotate clockwise and clip through belay loop of harness
  • Turn carabiner so that wide end point towards belay device
  • Lock it
• Belaying
  • Check belay setup and harness as well as harness and knot of climber.
  • Put left (guide) hand on life rope. Right (break) hand on dead rope should be at thigh.
  • Say "Climb when ready". Climber will answer "climbing" when he starts climbing.
  • Repeat. Always grab rope with whole hand, always lock, ...
    • Both hands pointing forward. Pull rope towards you with guide hand and away from you with brake hand
    • Lock by moving brake hand towards thigh
    • Let go guide hand and grab rope over the break hand
    • Let go break hand and place it ca. one hand width below belaying device
    • Let go guide hand and place it on life rope again

Take up rope

• Find middle marker and hold it with one hand
• Repeat till few meters from end
  • Grab doubled rope alternating with left and right hand
  • Place it behind neck
  • Pull with both hands of your outstreched arms
• Take down from shoulder holding the middle part
• Wrap end around coil several times
• Pass loop through coil
• Feed lose end through this loop and pull tight

Leading

Going up

• Clip quickdraw into bolt using the straight gate carabiner
• Clip rope into bent gate carabiner of quickdraw. To avoid backclipping rope should be feed along wall with the life end pointing away from the wall.

Setting up anchor

• Last quickdraw into carabiner on left bolt
• Attach harness with sling and locking carabiner to right bolt
• Shout "Safe!" or "Slack"
• Pull up some meters of rope between harness and last quickdraw
• Make a figure of eight and clip it into your harness using a locking carabiner
• Remove end of rope from harness
• Feed dead rope trough locking carabiners on both bolts. Rope must be behind all other devices being able to remove them at the end.
• Tie in again
• Remove other figure of eigth
• Move close to bolts
• Shout "Take in"
• When rope seems tightened test it
• Remove sling
• Remove quickdraws on way down

Pursuik

• Make an additional knot into both Pursik slings
• Attach the 2 3-wrapped Prusik hitches onto rope. Longer sling should be on bottom.
• Attach inner knot of upper sling with HMS carabiner to harness
• Go up by repeating this steps...
  • Stand into inner loop of foot sling and pull yourself up
  • Slide upper hitch up the rope
  • Site into harness
  • Slide lower hitch up the rope

Self belay

• Starting with Pursik...
• Attach yourself to the wall with a sling through belay loop and locking carabiner
• Feed both ropes between Pursik hitches through belay device and attach to harness
• Replace lower Pursik by 6-8 wrapped Klemheist and attach it to leg loop with a locking carabiner
• Belay yourself up, slide the Klemheist up and test for stability
• Remove sling
• Go down repeating the following steps...
  • Slide down Pursik hitch
  • Slide down Klemheist while holding the rope with your other hand
  • Lower yourself down

Links

• USMC forum
• Animated climbing knots
• See bookmarks!
• Peglers discount for BMC members